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I have been visiting Varanasi, a city I prefer to think of as Benaras, on this project since January 2006 . . . thats more than 10 years ago now, a full decade . . . and in these years I have made 21 trips, to the city I have grown to love. And hate. Both at the same time. She fascinates me. And infuriates me. Much as India does. And thats probably because Benaras is a microcosm of India. And all that is good, and bad, about my country can be found right within the gallis, ghats and ghars of this fascinating city. . .